Convert floor standing toilet to wall mounted toilet

In most cases, the replacement of a pedestal toilet with a wall-mounted toilet is done primarily for visual reasons. In the case of a wall-mounted toilet with concealed cistern, all water flows, flushing components and connections are ultimately located behind a pre-wall element, so that this fits particularly harmoniously into the overall look of the bathroom at home.

The advantages of a wall-mounted WC

. In the trade, the pre-wall elements are already available in the form of a finished component, so that a conversion of the existing floor-standing toilet is also possible on one's own, provided that a little craftsmanship is available. This element is then covered with plasterboard panels, which can be individually designed or painted to match the style of the bathroom. However, a wall-mounted toilet has more than just visual advantages. For example, cleaning the floor under the toilets is also much easier. In addition, fewer components of the toilet are exposed, so that even for these no great cleaning effort is required. Which seat height the toilet should have, can usually be influenced individually in the case of the pre-assembly elements - in contrast to the conventional floor-standing toilets. Usually, the installation takes place at a height of about 40 centimeters, but depending on the mobility and height of the bathroom users, it may well be installed on a lower or a higher position to ensure the most comfortable sitting position on the toilet.

Replace old floor-standing toilet with modern wall-mounted toilet - How it works

. How to replace the old floor-standing toilet with a new wall-mounted toilet can be found in the following step-by-step instructions.

Dismantling the old toilet

. The first step is to remove the lid of the existing cistern. By operating the lifting bell, the remaining water will flow out of the cistern. With the help of an open-end wrench, the flex hose is removed, and the entire valve is unscrewed with the water pump pliers. The cistern including the travelling holder can then be removed. To detach the toilet from the floor, the silicone joint on the floor must be cut, ideally using a sharp cutter knife. This step should be carried out carefully so that the tiles under the joint are not damaged. The screw connections on the floor are then loosened with a ratchet so that the toilet can be slowly pulled out of its connection on the wall. It is recommended to place a towel under the connection and close it immediately after removing the toilet with the help of tape and a garbage bag to prevent water from running out. The sewage pipe is pulled out of the wall so that the new cistern can be installed.

Placement of the concealed cistern

. In order to realize a modern wall-mounted toilet, it is necessary to use a special concealed cistern, which is also called a pre-wall element. All components of the cistern and the toilet suspension are integrated into it. The pre-wall element is placed at the position where the toilet will be placed in the future. It is important that the height of the pre-wall element is measured exactly to prevent the toilet from being hung too low. As a rule, a height of about 40 centimeters is selected between the upper edge of the toilet bowl and the floor. The drain pipe should be provided with a suitable bracket, to which the pipe can be attached in the further process. The assembly and subsequent insertion of the drain pipe succeed much easier if a little lubricant is used in the process.

Preparation of the holes for the pre-wall element

. The distance between the pre-wall element and the wall is determined by the length of the pipe. This dimension should also be marked accordingly on the floor. In order to be able to attach the feet of the new toilet, the required holes are to be drilled carefully with a percussion drill. Use a low speed, the impact function should not be activated, otherwise the risk of damaging the tiles increases. The percussion function should only be used once the tiles have been drilled through in order to deepen the hole accordingly. This is followed by tapping in the dowels with the help of a hammer.

Attachment of the pre-wall element

. Metal profiles are now attached to the upper edge of the assembly element on the right and left in order to align and connect it parallel to the wall. The construction is stabilized by providing the metal profiles with an additional center rail. The profiles, which were mounted on top, can be adjusted in terms of length, so that it is possible to adapt to individual conditions. A spirit level helps to adjust them so that the structure is parallel to the wall. The ratchet is then used to fix the screws.

Mount water inlet

. The next step is to mount the water inlet. To do this, with the help of a folding rule, measure what distance from the wall is necessary. After that, a measurement is made from the center of the opening of the pre-wall element to the floor. The necessary holes for the pre-wall profile should also be marked on the wall. After these are drilled, they are still equipped with suitable dowels. The previously measured height is to be marked directly above the wall inlet. From there, the distance to the central wall inlet must be measured again, because this distance must be bridged. A pipe extension in the form of threaded pipes is used for bridging.

Fabrication of the pipe extension

. It is highly important that the length of the pipe extension exactly matches the dimensions taken. After the threaded pipes have been correctly adjusted, they still need to be sealed and connected to each other. With the help of a metal saw blade, the thread is roughened for this purpose and wrapped with hemp fibers against the direction of rotation. The hemp should also be provided with a sealing paste to ensure the highest possible tightness of the construction. The next step is to connect the pipes. One end is fixed in place using the water pump pliers, while a large hexagonal wrench is used to tighten everything on the other side. Here again, extremely precise work is essential, because after the pre-wall element has been covered, repairing leaks is only possible with a great deal of effort. Finally, the corner joint is screwed into the wall and a final check is made of all the dimensions.

Attachment of the reducer to the pipe extension

. In many cases, if the corner valve and the threaded pipe are of different sizes, it will be necessary to use a reducer, which will ensure that both elements fit into each other and can thus be attached without any problems. Also in this step should not be omitted roughening of the thread and lining with hemp fiber. The assembly is then carried out with the use of an open-end wrench and water pump pliers. The pre-wall element is placed accordingly and the existing opening is equipped with the valve. In addition, now is also the time to attach to the drain pipe the bracket and put the protective plug, which is also known as the flange cap. The kit includes coarse-thread screws, which are used to securely screw the structure to the wall. With the help of a ratchet wrench, the screws are lightly tightened both on the floor and on the wall. The spirit level is then used to check that all the elements are properly aligned - only then tighten the screws completely.

Preparation of the substructure

. The threaded rods for holding the new WC are attached to the pre-wall element. Ideally, these are covered for the further work steps to prevent them from suffering any damage. The filling valve must be attached to the water inlet in the cistern. For this purpose, pliers are applied to the angle valve and it is tightened. Then it is possible to attach the cover.

Measuring the cladding of the pre-wall element

. After that, the cladding of the pre-wall element is done. Start with the metal profiles, which will later hold the toilet cladding. The height of the profiles should be about ten centimeters higher than the pre-wall element itself. Using a spirit level, the required dimension is marked on the wall on both sides. The side wall is given a mark of the depth of the pre-wall element.

Cutting and installation of the UW profiles

. With the help of sheet metal pliers or scissors, the UW profiles are cut to size. As a test, hold them against the previously drawn markings to check them once again. If the picture is consistent, the holes are drilled in the UW profile. Installation is made much easier if nail anchors are used, which are inserted into the wall with a screwdriver and hammer. Around the pre-wall element, this step is repeated with all the rails.

Cutting the toilet cladding

. After mounting all the rails, the panels of plasterboard are inserted. In this regard, it is recommended to build a double planked plasterboard wall for the toilet. This will give the box the necessary stability, and also effectively insulate the noise of the cistern. The dimension of the pre-wall element is checked again and then marked on the plasterboard. A straight edge and a cutter knife are then used to cut along the markings. Subsequently, it is possible to break the panel by hand. Ideally, by the way, green plasterboard is used, which is specially designed for the requirements of damp rooms, as they are shown to be mold-resistant and water-repellent. Then on the plasterboard markings for the threaded rods and drain pipe. When measuring, the diameter of the drain pipe is taken, which is then traced with the help of a compass. First drill a hole in the board for the appropriate sawing, which can then be applied with the saw knife. A hole saw is used to make the recesses for the flushing pipe and the threaded rods. The surface for the handle plate must also be sawed out. Once everything is cut to fit, the sawn out areas are to be transferred to the second plasterboard.

Inserting the plasterboard

. Now it is time to screw the pre-wall element to the first wall. In advance, mark the lateral position of the strips with masking tape on the floor, so that you can later see where the screws can be placed. After screwing the first wall, the masking tape markings are used to draw a straight line upwards. Repeat this step on both sides. The panels are then screwed onto the pre-wall element. Ideally, drywall screws with a cutting head are used for this. The second plasterboard panel is placed exactly on top of the first panel. The masking tape markings are also to be marked in the process before all components are screwed together. To allow the box to be covered later, another corner profile is screwed to the inside top edge. For the sides and the lid, the appropriate panels are to be cut to size before these are subsequently screwed to the corner profile. Finally, the edges should be planed once again so that the protruding corners are deburred.

Preparation of the plasterboard for filling

. The next step is to fill the plasterboard. To avoid soiling the walls and floor too much in the process, it is advisable to secure the nearby surfaces with painter's fleece and foil. The primer can then be started after everything has been covered. For this purpose, a little deep primer is put into a bucket, which is applied with a tassel or a painter's roller. Care should be taken to avoid the formation of puddles. Drying is then carried out according to the respective manufacturer's instructions. Measurements are then taken for the corner protection rails. The rails are then cut to size and fastened to the box using a stapler. Care should be taken to ensure that the rails are pointed at their corners.

Filling the pre-wall element

. With water, the next step is to mix extra fine painter's putty - again, of course, according to the respective manufacturer's instructions. Once the appropriate consistency of the putty is achieved, it should be applied with a spatula and a smoothing trowel. If drywall is present, the putty is spread generously over the gypsum board and the rails so that the surface is shown to be as even as possible. The compound should be continuously smoothed and allowed to dry extensively after work according to the appropriate specifications. Then, if there are still unevenness, it is possible to touch them up with the help of sandpaper.

Painting the cistern

. With the help of a roller and a brush, the paint for the flush-mounted cistern is applied. It is necessary to ensure uniform painting, even on the edges and corners. This is followed by drying the paint according to the manufacturer's instructions. To prevent the brushes from drying out, they can be wetted with paint and then wrapped in foil. The utensils can then be used again for the next painting job without any problems. To guarantee a perfect paint result, the cistern should be painted twice. After the paint has dried, skirting boards are installed. This will look especially aesthetically pleasing if they are chosen to match the flooring.

Assembly of the wall-mounted toilet

. To install the toilet, you must first measure the threaded rods. To do this, the folding rule is used to measure the ceramic, then the threaded rods are adjusted to the required length on the box. To do this, they can simply be unscrewed or screwed in. The depth of the connection pipe and the flushing pipe must also be measured. This will help determine the length to which the inlet and outlet pipe should be shortened. These measurements are transferred to the pipes on the WC and then cut to size using a metal hacksaw. Use a cutter knife to deburr the sharp edges. The next step is to install the new wall-mounted toilet. In the first step, the wall is fitted with the sound insulation included in the scope of delivery and the pipes are provided with the appropriate seal. After the application of lubricant, the pipe and the connecting pieces are inserted. After that, the toilet is to be pushed onto the threaded rods. Used in the process of fastening can also be metal or plastic washers, so that the nuts can be tightened with your bare hand. A spirit level should then be used to check the WC alignment once again. If no more adjustments are needed, the toilet is completely tightened with an open-end wrench. The cover flaps are placed on the screws last.

The finishing touches

. The last step is to take care of small details, such as attaching the actuation button of the new toilet. For this purpose, the bracket is placed and fixed with the help of a screwdriver. The inlet valve can then be screwed on with the screwdriver as soon as all the components are firmly in place. The push rods ensure that the flush is activated as soon as the buttons are pressed. These are inserted on the right and left sides of the specified opening. After the casing is put on, a correct function of the construction is checked. If the sound insulation still protrudes, the corresponding areas should be cut off using a cutter knife. Optionally, the gap that appears between the toilet and the wall can also be sealed with silicone. A cartridge press and special sanitary silicone are then used for this. Photo: Max Vakhtbovych/pexels.com